TripOut Gay Travel:
Provincetown

My favorite time to be in Provincetown is the autumn, hands down. While I do of course enjoy the endless crowds of drag queens, party boys and hand-holding couples that is summer in Ptown, the post Labor Day season has a charm all its own. What could be better than biking through the cool, crisp fall air of New England, a steaming bowl of delicious lobster bisque, and a burly Canadian tourist awaiting you in bed back at the hotel? (It’s my fantasy people, just deal with it.)

Accommodations are easier to obtain (and more affordable) once the summer crowds have departed. One of my favorite places in town to stay is the historic Crowne Pointe Inn (a mid-nineteenth century Sea Captain’s house, revamped into a grand compound). The guest rooms and suites are all beautifully appointed and immaculate, and the grounds feature landscaping that is lush and somewhat Asian-inspired, as well as a heated pool, and two Jacuzzis. It’s a very luxe environment for this kooky seaside port, but the vibe is one of relaxed elegance. Also on site is the wonderful Bistro restaurant, and just past the koi pond is The Shui Spa. There’s nothing I like better than a good massage after a day of gorging myself on saltwater taffy!

Though right in the center of town The Tucker Inn (an Empire Victorian Cottage built in 1872) is situated on a peaceful side street, and is a delightful guesthouse for folks traveling with pets. The guest rooms are cozy and clean, and the resident canines—spunky Jack Russell Chloe and sweet, mellow lab Colby—add to the warm and homey atmosphere. The courtyard is a peaceful retreat, with a hot tub, gorgeous plantings and the sounds of trickling water fountains. In the morning guests are treated to a tasty buffet style breakfast; and I have to admit I went a little carb crazy. The french toast was delicious!

Now here’s a little insider information for you: There are plenty of places to eat in Provincetown, but much of the food in town, to be perfectly frank, sucks! Case in point: A certain cafe named after a historic pilgrim-toting seafaring vessel on Commercial Street. Granted, this is just my personal opinion, but it’s stomach-turningly bad. I mean how hard is it to mess up pasta? Meanwhile, there’s the long-time late-night gay favorite Spiritus Pizza (aka “Stare At Us” pizza), which is the place where all sentient beings in town seem to flock to at 1 AM, but people definitely come for the scene and not the food. Call me a grump, but I find the pizza to be overpriced, bland and cold, and the staff is beyond rude. They will serve you your slice unheated unless you tell them otherwise, and they can’t be bothered to look at or speak to you. They don’t have to, they know people are going to go there anyway. But so rude! On my last swing through Ptown, I asked the counter girl inside for a cup of water for my friend’s dog, and she told me she “lost the recipe.” Evil!

Now there are some wonderful eateries in town, of course. Wabi Dumplings is a new entry on the scene. Spend an autumn afternoon at one of their outdoor tables, enjoying a tasty Thai Chicken Salad Wrap and watching the world stroll by. A bit east on Commercial Street is The Lobster Pot, a longtime Ptown favorite. The lobster ravioli—Oh… My…God. Heaven! Bubalas by the Bay is another hotspot, with friendly service, a lively crowd and a menu that includes a very yummy Chicken Athena (and you thought she was a local drag performer!)

But enough about food… Chances are you’re heading to Ptown for the fun scene. And while summer sees most of the big events in Ptown—Summer Camp, Bear Week, Carnival—the fall season has plenty of fun activities in store.

September 25 – 27
Pet Appreciation Weekend
This is a fantastic annual event created by the town’s no-kill Carrie A. Seaman Animal Shelter. Highlights include a Pet Parade, Pet Tea Dance at the Boat Slip, and the Blessing of the Animals at St Mary’s of the Harbor. Woof!
http://www.casasanimalshelter.org

October 2 – 4
Mates Leather Weekend
October kicks off with the popular Mates Leather Weekend, a gathering for the Leather, Rubber and Uniform community. There’s a Leather Market at A-House, a Jockstrap Party at the Vault, and a Rubber Ball at Club Purgatory. I don’t know if the salty sea air is bad for leather & rubber, but it’s sure to be a blast!
http://www.matesleatherweekend.com

October 9 – 18
25th Annual Women’s Week
It’s all about the gals during this annual week’s worth of events, from October 9 – 18. God-des & She will be rocking out at The Post Office Cabaret, the dance floor at the Vixen will be packed, and a slew of lady-loving comics will be in town, including Kate Clinton and Jessica Kirson at the Crown & Anchor, and Judy Gold and Poppy Champlain at the Art House.
http://www.womeninnkeepers.com/womens_week.html

October 18 – 25
Fantasia Fair
The week-long Fantasia Fair is is the oldest and longest-running gathering of transgender persons for education, support, parties and events! Don’t miss the Fashion Show or the Fantasia Fair Follies!
http://www.fantasiafair.org

October 31 – November 1
SpookyBear Weekend
Halloween always brings a big scary batch of activities every year to Ptown, and it also brings out the big guys for Spooky Bear Weekend. The fun kicks off with a “Meet & Greet & Eat” party, rocks on with a beer blast and costume contests, and ends with a Sunday breakfast buffet. Those boys are hungry!)
http://www.ne-ursamen.org/spookybear/index.html

As the weather gets truly nippy in November, the beauty of Provincetown’s natural landscapes and historical architecture become even more evident. On November 25th from, 5-7 pm the annual Lighting of the Pilgrim Monument (http://www.pilgrim-monument.org) takes place, and it’s always a spectacular sight.

From there on, the holiday season in Ptown goes into high gear with the annual Provincetown Business Guild’s Holly Folly from December 4-6. (http://www.ptown.org/HollyFolly.asp). There’s the Holly Folly Shop Hop, a concert by Boston Gay Men’s Chorus, the Snow Ball at the A-House, even a Mr. & Ms. Santa Photo-Op at Song of Myself Photography. And you just know that Mrs. Claus will have a five o’clock shadow.

AND NOW… Mike Diamond’s Provincetown Videos. Our apologies to everyone involved already…

For more info on what’s on in Ptown during the off-peak months (and all year long) you can visit http://www.celebrateprovincetown.com.

Need recommendations on hotels, restaurants, and other points of interest?

See All Provincetown Recommendations

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