TripOut Gay Travel:
Kuala Lumpur

One of the world’s most striking (and tallest) man-made structures, Kuala Lumpur’s The Petronas Towers are an iconic image indeed: A pair of almost alien-looking, textured metal and glass skyscrapers joined by a slender walkway. Both up close and from afar it captivates, as does this city overall.

At first glance, Malaysia’s Kuala Lumpur bears many surface similarities to Bangkok: tropical, humid weather, palm trees aplenty, a skyrail, and – sigh – almost perpetual gridlocked traffic. Currency exchange rates remain favorable for visitors, the people are friendly, and the food is fantastic, notably the wealth of inexpensive street vendor fare. In fact, many of the best (and cheapest) delights are from stalls and hawkers along alleyways and roads including Jalan Barat, Jalan Alor, Jalan Chow Kit and Chinatown’s Jalan Petaling (between Jalan Cheng Lock and Jalan Sultan). From nasi lemak (coconut rice) to curries and spicy laksa soups to incredible Indian, Thai and Indonesian staples, and plenty of vegetarian fare, you can easily spend entire days grazing.

A big note here: Unlike the largely Buddhist Thailand, the Islamic-ruled Malaysia is legally unfriendly to gays, and homosexual acts are punishable by law (Penal Code 377). That said, this code is rarely enforced today, and typically only applies to Muslims anyway. So while LGBT life tends to be on the downlow in daylight, it thrives in gay bars, clubs, and restaurants. There’s even a fantastic HIV/AIDS and LGBT support organization, The Pink Triangle Foundation, whose diverse, mostly Western-educated staff is happy to hear from, and assist, LGBT tourists with navigating the local scene (or seeking a free rapid HIV test).

KL’s central area is known as the Golden Triangle. One of its hubs, Bukit Bintang, pulses with nonstop foot traffic, commerce, top-notch hotels, and fabulous shopping centers. Chinatown caters to Malaysia’s sizable Chinese population (haggle when buying souvenirs!). Browse an extensive selection of Saris and Indian food in Little India. And hip, indie-minded Bangsar is packed with great bistros, boutique stores and massage parlors. Many English-language publications are available (including trashy gossip rags!) and most KL residents speak English. “La” is the Malaysian equivalent of Canada’s “eh?” and frequently caps off sentences in both spoken and typed conversations (ie: “You’re hungry, la? So much traffic today, la.”). Every March, the nearby, visually striking township of Putrajaya hosts Citrawarna, also known as the Colours and Flavours of Malaysia festival, during which troupes representing each Malaysian region – from food to colorfully costumed performers – converge. It’s an entertaining treat for sure… but then again everyday is colorful in KL.

Cool Shopping… Literally!
Offering a climate-controlled escape from KL’s nonstop summer heat, the city’s modern indoor shopping centers are gorgeously designed, feature everything from food to art galleries and attractions, and international big chains (GAP, etc) to fashionista labels (like UK’s sassy Top Shop, Hugo Boss, and China’s Shanghai Tang). The aesthetics-centric Starhill Gallery (181 Jalan Bukit Bintang; http://starhillgallery.com) is a must-see. The lower level is home to a labyrinth of gorgeous, gay-friendly upscale restaurants – SHOOK is one of the most popular. Regardless of where you eat, you have to use the downstairs level’s bathroom, a spa-like wonder of stacked slate walls coated with peppermint oil, cinematic lighting, and a staff member who manually pumps sink water. Also don’t miss the outer spacey passageway to next door’s JW Marriott Hotel. Other shopping centers of note include Pavilion (next door to Bukit Bintang’s Grand Millennium hotel), Avenue K (designed by France’s Christian Liagre), Berjaya Times Square, and Sungei Wang Plaza (which stocks locally-designed street wear).

Good Eatin’
Available in most KL bookstores, The Star Guide to Malaysian Street Food (approx. $11 USD) is excellent, reviewing the best stalls and storefronts around the country. Almost everywhere you’ll find iced Air (water) vendors, flavors ranging from Watermelon-Rosewater to Chocolatey Milo. One sad note: Bacon and pork can be tough to come by in Malaysia, and the “beef bacon” offered at so many breakfast buffets is downright gnarly.

Put Your Money Where Your Putrajaya Is
Malaysia’s own futuristic Dubai, and a center for government and its employees, the township of Putrajaya is an architectural wonderland located about halfway between KL’s city center and the KL International Airport (you literally can’t miss it). From a giant, colorful Putra mosque to numerous striking bridges, it’s well worth a stroll/drive through.

Get Fruity
One of Malaysia’s natural gifts is its wealth of exotic tropical fruit including the colorful Rambutan (a brightly fuscia-colored lychee relative covered in rubbery tendrils). Love it or hate it, the Durian is amongst the most popular. “Smells of hell, tastes of heaven” locals say of the powerfully stinky Durian, which emits a scent so heady that it’s forbidden/discouraged in hotels, rental cars, and public spaces. One of KL’s most savory, and accessible to newbies, preparations is restaurant Lai Po Heen’s Durian Pancake, a delicate crepe containing whipped cream and Durian sections (see Mandarin Oriental KL in the hotels section). But Durian addicts beware: According to locals, its gases can be literally toxic – consuming too much Durian in combination with beer will allegedly kill its consumer (and we’re talking a lot, like 2 whole Durians worth).

Gay Guides
Since no local queer publications exist as yet, website Utopia Asia (http://www.utopia-asia.com) and Purple Lab (http://www.purplelab.net) serve as up-to-the-minute guides. Purple Lab is a lesbian social network with over 6,000 members and hosts mixers and parties on a quarterly basis. Meanwhile, biweekly magazine Time Out Kuala Lumpur (http://www.timeoutkl.com) is an indispensable guide to what’s new and notable – their restaurant listings/reviews are superb and very current.

And a Few Other Tips – Literally.
When it comes to exchanging money, higher denominations of US bills – specifically $50 and $100 – sometimes receive better rates than smaller ones. Every city has its own special annoying set of characters, and KL’s are monks who stalk the streets and approach you with “good luck” cards, for which you are expected to make a contribution or suffer from bad karma. They’re like human chain mail!

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